There have been some changes – I no longer link to etsy and have removed widgets; I have changed the banner and the icon (blavatar, they call it…)

All in all, I think it now reflects the way I feel today better than before.

There might be more changes in the near future, still looking, trying things out and generally fumbling… Stay tuned and thanks for bearing with me through the different iterations of this place!

download now – from rapidshare (use the corresponding link; for free users, it may take a while before your download begins. Thanks for your patience!)

* Ultra slim – no more than 5 stitches in width per row

* Ultra long – make it very very very long so you can wrap to your heart’s content

* Ultra easy – all you need to know is how to make double crochets (US terminology)

* Ultra zig-zag – without having to zig or to zag, the effect is automatic

* Ultra fast – before you know it, you have a length of a meter or two

* Ultra fun – make many in different colours, solid or variegated, long or short colour changes, everything goes

* Ultra versatile – combine with different colours, wrap tightly or loosely, braid, coil, etc

All you need is

* a skein of yarn – whichever you fancy – I used Lana Grossa Meilenweit sock yarn (about 50 grams)

* a hook that fits it – I used a 4mm / G hook

* the knowledge about a double crochet (US terminology, triple crochet for British)

* and a movie to watch at the same time!

Gauge is not important, at all. (Unless you want to sew them together, then it would be best if all parts were done with the same kind of yarn and the same hook)

Let’s get started:

 * chain 4

* make 4 double crochets in 4th chain from hook (a shell forms)

* chain 3, turn (counts as double crochet)

* make 4 double crochets in first stitch (corner of previous shell)

* chain 3, turn – and continue as above for as long as you like or until you run out of yarn.

 Easy, isn’t it? Just using one corner of each shell creates the zig-zag effect, and it works up really fast.

Have fun!

It is for a very sturdy double-thick potholder born from the marriage of different techniques. It has 4 different colours, two on each side.

Why is this pattern not for free, when it’s “just a potholder”?

Because the instructions contain a photo tutorial to an entire technique that is innovating existing ones. This potholder is made in one go, it is NOT two sides made separately and then sewn together.

The technique can be used for other items, like hot pads, place mats or rugs. It could also be taken a step further and combined with the tapestry crochet technique to make patterns instead of stripes.

Thank you for your understanding!

Knook 2 rows (knit stitch)

In the third row, increase by knooking into the loop of the stitch of the previous row AND the stitch of the needle. The arrows show where I will increase the stitches; right now, there are 11 stitches on the cord.

Important: mark the side that faces you when increasing with a coloured piece of yarn, it is the “right” side – the yarn marker has to face you later when you drop the stitches.

After increasing, I have 16 stitches (additional ones pointed out by arrows):

Now knook (I only used knit stitches) for as long as you want, but remember – in the row you plan to drop the stitches, the yarn marker has to face you! (aka – an even number of rows AFTER adding the stitches). The yarn marker is not in my pics, sorry about that.

Now you knook across – SKIPPING all those stitches you added earlier. All the knooked stitches will be on your hook, the skipped ones will still be on the cord (arrows; the picture is not 100% clear):

Then you pull out the cord, leaving the knooked stitches on the hook, and the skipped ones are now without support:

Pull on the fabric until they have dropped all the way down to where you added them – you have created 5 ladders (in my example) and once again, you only have 11 stitches on the hook:

(sorry about the crappy picture!)

I used a worsted weight acrylic yarn and a nr 7 (4.5 mm) Denise interchangeable hook to try this out.

The yarn had a very slight tendency to split, which made it difficult for the stitches to drop properly. Make sure you split your yarn as little as possible, and help your stitches to go down all the way…

Thanks for all the lovely comments on the chain maille scarf – I am glad so many people found the pattern useful!

You gave me the courage I needed to keep on trying to come up with new patterns, and even if my left hand is killing me (I don’t think I mentioned that on here, for quite a while now, I’ve had bad pain in my left thumb, I think it came from knitting one particular scarf with slippery wool on slippery needles, all that and it never sold at the market it was destined to…)

I’ll go slow for a while (although I can’t watch a movie without wanting to have yarn in my hands!), maybe paint a little, to allow my hand to rest and heal.

But I’ll be back, I have an idea, too….

so – see you in the new year, celebrate well, and may it be a good one!

Cheers!

Zig Zag Scarf

I had a bunch of worsted weight leftover yarns from knitting or crocheting other things, and I decided to find me something to use them up. After fiddling around a bit and finding a pattern, I discovered the crocheting pattern itself isn’t new, I discovered single coloured potholders made in a similar way, but this ain’t a potholder

This pattern can be downloaded as a PDF version here. (This is a Rapidshare download; if you don’t hold an accound with them, choose the free download. This might take a few moments, thanks for your patience!)

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Eine deutsche Fassung kann hier heruntergeladen werden. Dies ist ein Rapidshare download, wenn Sie kein Konto dort besitzen, wählen sie die gratis Möglichkeit. Das wird einige Augenblicke dauern, danke für Ihre Geduld!)

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Here’s what you need:

- 9 (or more) different colours of leftover yarn (preferably all in the same weight)

- crocheting hook matching your yarn

- a darning needle / tapestry needle to sew in ends.

Here’s how to do it – the crochet pattern:

Stitches used (US English):

- chain stitch

- single crochet

begin with a chain of 34 chain stitches

Row 1 – base row

• 1 (one) single crochet into the second chain from hook
• *1 (one) single crochet into the three next chains (4 single crochets made)
• 3 (three) single crochets into the next chain
• 1 (one) single crochet into the four next chains
• draw loop through next chain as if to make single crochet, but do not finish stitch. Keep loop on crochet.
• skip one chain
• draw loop through next chain as if to make single crochet. Now finish stitch by pulling your yarnover through all the loops (3) on your crochet.
• 1 (one) single crochet into the four next chains
• 3 (three) single crochets into the next chain
• 1 (one) single crochet into the four next chains
• draw loop through next chain as if to make single crochet, but do not finish stitch. Keep loop on crochet.
• skip one chain
• draw loop through next chain as if to make single crochet. Now finish stitch by pulling your yarnover through all the loops (3) on your crochet.
• 1 (one) single crochet into the four next chains
• 3 (three) single crochets into the next chain
• 1 (one) single crochet into the four next chains
• one chain stitch
• turn work*

(you already will see your row forming the zigzag – with three points and two valleys; sorry for the crappy chart, I couldn’t figure out a more professional way)

Row 2

skip the last single crochet made in previous row

1 (one) single crochet into the back loop of the next stitch

repeat Row 1 from * to *, with the difference that ALL stitches are worked into the back loop of the stitch below

Following rows

Repeat Row 2 until your scarf is as long as you want it to be r all your colours have been used!

Here’s how to do it – the colour pattern:

• work 5 rows with colour 1
• switch colours: cut yarn , use new colour. Crochet around ends as you go, weaving them in automatically. Always use the new colour to make the chain stitch before turning work.
• work 1 row with colour 2
• work 4 rows with colour 1
• work 2 rows with colour 2
• work 3 rows with colour 1
• work 3 rows with colour 2
• work 2 rows with colour 1
• work 4 rows with colour 2
• work 1 row with colour 1
• work 5 rows with colour 2
• work 1 row with colour 3
• work 4 rows with colour 2
• continue working in the same rhythm (5, 1, 4, 2, 3, 3, 2, 4, 1, 5, 1…), progressively changing colours.
• finish with 5 rows of last colour
• weave in ends, enjoy!

© Karmaeleon

You may use this free pattern for personal use only, please do not copy or sell it. Please do not sell the finished items either. Non-respect of these guidelines will be reported. Thanks.

Crocheted Coral Brooches

I don’t know how it is in your region, but when I buy safety pins over here, there are always a couple of those really big ones in the lot – like 5 cm or 2 inches long.

Too short to use as stitch holder unless you have only a couple to put on hold, too long to use for anything else. In any case, I have no use for them.

So I decided to try making brooches of them, and I was really surprised by the results.

Not only are the pins themselves invisible – they are also big enough to support the weight of the added yarn to stay stable and not droop.

Although all of the patterns follow hereafter, if you prefer a hard copy you can download a PDF version here and print it. This is a rapidshare download, you’ll need to choose the option applicable to you (premium user or free user). Free users will have to wait for a moment before their download begins. Thanks for your patience and understanding!

All patterns are mine. Please  do not distribute or sell either pattern or finished objects. Thanks.

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General notes:

You can use many kinds of yarn, leftovers are great – but I’d suggest to stay in the fingering range and use a 3 mm (D) or a 3.5 (E) mm hook, otherwise I think your result will be too bulky.

Colours are not important, and I think variegated yarns might produce great results. I used Rellana Carina Glanzperle (a shiny acrylic which makes picture taking rather difficult because it reflects the flash) in bright colours for these samples.

What you need:

- some leftover fingering yarn (20 – 30 grams should be amply sufficient) in any colourway that pleases you (maybe the same as a scarf you made?)

- a 3 mm (D) or 3.5 mm (E) crocheting hook (3 mm is actually between size C and D)

- a 5 cm ( 2 inches) safety pin

- a darning or tapestry needle to sew in ends

How-to

1. How to hold your safety pin:

Your safety pin has two sides: the fixed one and the one that opens.

The opening one should be at the bottom.

The loop formed by the wire should be to your right (or to your left I suppose, if you’re left-handed); the fastening side to the left (or the right if you’re a leftie).

Keep the pin closed.

2. How to start your work (same for all three pins)

If your safety pin hinge loop is big enough for your hook, make slip stitch through this loop (insert hook in the hinge, yarn over, pull through a loop, yarn over, pull y-o through the loop on your hook).

Otherwise, make a slip knot and slip it onto hook – you’ll fasten the end through the hinge later.

Now work at least 15 double crochets (or as many as will fit without crowding the wire) around the fixed part of the pin wire: yarn over, insert your hook between the two wires of the closed pin, yarn over, pull through loop of yarn. Yarn over, pull yarn through 2 of the loops on your hook, yarn over, pull through the remaining 2 loops.

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Pattern One:

By the Short and Curlies

Now that you have prepared your pin with the row of double crochets, chain 8 on top of the last double crochet worked in the foundation row.

Work 3 double crochets in 3rd chain from hook and into each following chain (15 double crochet stitches). This bit will now curl.

Slip stitch into top of second to last stitch of foundation row.

Chain 8 and repeat the curly bit (3 double crochets in 3rd chain from hook and each following chain).

Slip stitch into next free stitch of foundation row.

Repeat this until you have reached the end of the foundation row and you have slip stitched into the last double crochet of the row.

Fasten off, sew in ends, making sure you sew a few stitches through the hinge of the pin.

Pin onto a shirt, coat, purse or scarf, arrange the curlies to your liking, and go out to show off!

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Pattern Two:

Hyperbolic

After preparing your foundation row on your pin, chain 3, turn work.

Work 3 double crochets into the last stitch of your foundation row.

Into each following stitch, work 4 double crochets.

Chain 3, turn work.

Work 3 double crochets into the last of previous row and 4 double crochets into each following stitch until you reach the end of the row (yes, it’s a lot).

Fasten off, sew in ends, making sure you sew a few stitches through the hinge of the pin.

Pin onto a shirt, coat, purse or scarf, arrange the curlies to your liking, and go out to show off!

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Pattern Three:

Loopy

After preparing your foundation row on the pin, chain 3.

Double crochet into the last stitch of foundation row.

Chain 3 without turning work, and double crochet in the last stitch just made. Repeat 3 more times.

Single crochet into second to last stitch of foundation row. You have formed a loop with 5 holes in its body.

Chain 3, make next loop and fasten it with a single crochet into next free stitch of foundation row.

Continue making loops this way until you have made a single crochet in the last free stitch of your foundation row.

Chain 3.

Work 3 double crochets into each hole in the body of the loop.

When you have completed the stitches in the last hole of the loop, continue seamlessly with the first hole of the next loop.

Work your way around all the loops until you reach the last one.

Fasten off, sew in ends, making sure you sew a few stitches through the hinge of the pin.

Pin onto a shirt, coat, purse or scarf, arrange the curlies to your liking, and go out to show off!

Chain Maille Fingerless

Mittens

This pattern is a spin-off from the Chain Maille Scarf pattern. Easy, fast, light, fun and decorative “mittens” that will catch everyone’s eye.

You can download the pattern here to print it out for a hard copy, or read it online hereafter! (the download link is a rapidshare link, so if you are not a subscriber with them, you can use the free user button – this will take a while so be patient, thanks!

The downloadable pattern also includes a little tutorial at the end.

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Here’s what you need:

- some leftovers of worsted weight yarn (50 grams should be plenty)

- a 5 mm (size H) crocheting hook

- a darning needle / tapestry needle to sew in ends.

Here’s how to do it:

Stitches used (US English):

- chain stitch

- slip stitch

Important: decide the length you want and measure against your hand / wrist while working. For this pair, I made 8 loops and 8 rows (base row included but without finishing row)

Row 1 – base row

• chain 7

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook to form a loop.

• *chain 11 (4+7)

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook* – second loop formed

• repeat from * to * until your base row has desired length

• turn work

Row 2

• chain 10 (3+7)

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook to form next loop

• chain 2

• slip stitch into top of last loop of previous row

• *chain 9 (2+7)

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook

• chain 2

• slip stitch into top of next free loop of previous row*

• repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the row

• turn work

• repeat row 2 until scarf has desired width or you almost run out of yarn – remember there is a last row!

Last Row

Since the top of our row is made of loops, we need a finishing row.

For this, after turning the work

• chain 4

• slip stitch into top of last loop of previous row

• *chain 4

• slip stitch into top of next free loop of previous row*

• repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

• Fasten off, leave a longer end.

• Make second mitten.

• Fold finished pieces in half, lengthwise.

• Sew long edges together – leaving a thumb hole at a convenient place and the appropriate length for you (try on and measure!) – for both at the same spot.

• sew in ends

• Enjoy!

Chain Maille Scarf

I once talked to a guy about crocheting, and he told me he “knew how to crochet”. When I scratched that surface, I found out that all he could do was chain stitch…

This thought never left me, and I decided I’d create a pattern made exclusively of chain stitches and slip stitches (a slip stitch is nothing but a chain stitch worked through a previously formed loop).

But I didn’t just want a simple mesh – boring! So after some trial and error, I came up with this – and it produced a lovely scarf!

Light and airy, drapy, and yet it scrunches up to form a lovely warm neck-wear and is an eye-catcher at the same time.

As I only had one skein of this particular yarn, I worked the scarf lengthwise to have more control over the length, but it also worked up to a nice width.

You can download the pattern here to print it out for a hard copy, or read it online hereafter! (the download link is a rapidshare link, so if you are not a subscriber with them, you can use the free user button – this will take a while so be patient, thanks!

The downloadable pattern also includes a little tutorial at the end.

* * * * * * * * * * * * *

Here’s what you need:

- one 100 gr skein of sock yarn (I used Lana Grossa Meilenweit Merino)

- a 3.5 mm (size E) crocheting hook

- a darning needle / tapestry needle to sew in ends.

Here’s how to do it:

Stitches used (US English):

- chain stitch

- slip stitch

Row 1 – base row

• chain 7

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook to form a loop.

• *chain 11 (4+7)

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook* – second loop formed

• repeat from * to * until your base row has desired length (I made 95 loops to get a length of about 2 meters)

• turn work

Row 2

• chain 10 (3+7)

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook to form next loop

• chain 2

• slip stitch into top of last loop of previous row

• *chain 9 (2+7)

• slip stitch into 7th chain from hook

• chain 2

• slip stitch into top of next free loop of previous row*

• repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the row

• turn work

• repeat row 2 until scarf has desired width or you almost run out of yarn – remember there is a last row! (I made 13 repeats)

Last Row

Since the top of our row is made of loops, we need a finishing row.

For this, after turning the work

• chain 4

• slip stitch into top of last loop of previous row

• *chain 4

• slip stitch into top of next free loop of previous row*

• repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

• Fasten off, weave in ends.

Enjoy!